Tonga - Vava'u

Vava'u is the island group on the north side of Tonga. It is pronounced va-va and then a pause and a hard U (like in Bucharest).

This island group is known for being Tonga's most scenic with dense green vegetation growing on rocky islands surrounded by pristine white sand beaches and crystal blue waters. There are 34 islands and over half are uninhabited. Yachties frequent the waters of Vava'u. The islands are fringed by coral reefs and are known for snorkeling and sport fishing. The waters of Vava'u are also a humpback whale breeding and calving ground.

I flew from Tongatapu on Chathams Pacific (Tonga's domestic airline). At the airport I was amused that my boarding pass was a hand written slip of paper with my name, destination, seat and date. Stapled to my boarding pass was my bag tag. It consisted of a 1in square colored piece of paper that they hand wrote the number 13 (I am guessing I was the 13th bag to go on the plane). The distance between the seats was surprising and reminded me of airplane seats in the old days...I could extend my legs and not hit the seat in front of me. The plane was built with enough room to be comfortable for Tongans. Sadly, I did not get a window seat and the girl next to me spent the entire time with the shade closed or looking out the window blocking the view. Grrr!!

The roads from the Vava'u airport to town were shocking. I watched the progression of cars in front of us as they swerved from one side of the street to the other. They were avoiding pot holes. Some of the pot holes were more like trenches. The vehicles had to slow down to try not to be swallowed. The traffic curved and swerved from the airport to the main town of Neiafu. The roads in town were better (see pictures below).

The main street is not very long. It starts at the steps that lead down into the market and ends at a very large white Catholic church. The buildings are what I expected for a third world island nation. Some are modern and some have been around for a long time with different colors or pealing paint. The main shopping venues are called the "Chinese Shops." The shops can be as simple as a long room like a cargo container with a window cut out with bars up to separate the salesperson from the patron. Others are actual stores that you can walk into. The other shopping area is the market.
The outdoor market is a paved space under a metal roof divided into 2 areas. The first area is the fresh fruit and veg and the second area is handmade crafts. Goods are displayed on tables. Each merchant trying to get the tourists to stop and look because their table "is the best".

On my first walk through town the huge pit in the sidewalk at the top of the main road was pointed out to me. We laughed about how it would be important to pay attention because one wrong step and....wow..and me not being the most graceful. I can imagine that the pit caused some injuries to those stumbling home at might. This pit was impressive and I used it as my landmark the remainder of my time in Neiafu. The pit was filled with trash (not out of place in the town). It was a massive thing that took up a majority of the sidewalk.

Market Building

The market was fun. As expected, they sold only what was in season. The variety of fruit and veg was more limited than I expected. I was hoping to make a good stir-fry one day but they only had tomatoes and cucumbers. They also had large amounts of huge root vegetables but I had no idea what they were or how to cook any of them. Oh well. The other side of the market sold more tourist items. Lots of woven bags and bowls, jewelry and hand carved wood, bone and shell. It was interesting to meander down the aisles but if you hesitated for even a split second, the merchant would pounce and would begin describing everything on their table and, of course, "make a special deal for you just today". I did like a piece of jewelry that had a beautiful flower carved from a shell that I could not put down. But it was too small. After paying half the price up front, they made me one the right size that I picked up 2 days later. Yea!

One other thing to mention about walking the streets of Vava'u. Pigs. Yep...big pigs and little piglets. Pigs are a symbol of Tonga (according to some of the Tongans I asked). I understood why after wandering around. It is common to see pigs and chickens cross the road. It was quite funny to watch a little piglet trot to the opposite side of the road from mom in the scatter when a person approached. After the person passed, the little piglet would dart back across the street and mom would raise quite a ruckus scolding the little piggy. Wow...was the little guy in trouble. I saw this more than once. The roosters were a morning wake up call most days. They too were common pedestrians. I am sure the true answer as to why the chicken crossed the road must have something to do with pigs.

The flipside to the main part of Neifu was the tourist side of the town. Places that catered to the Yachties and tourists transiting through that advertised wireless internet and tour bookings. Some serving extremely overpriced food that may (or generally not) live up to the price. Most of the tourist shops/restaurants are owned by foreigners who came to Tonga and decided to stay. These places looked like a tropical paradise.

Many of the Tonga travel guides recommended going to church on Sunday. I could not figure out what church service was THE service to attend for the full Tongan Sunday Church Experience. I asked several people including Tongans and tourists who had been on the island on Sunday. The answer I received was that it really does not matter what church...just go. The other question I had was "Why?"...the recommendation again just said to go to church. The reason became clear very quickly. In one word...the singing. Starting at 5am, the bells of the churches rang and rang and rang and rang. It woke me up. It also woke up the roosters who decided to join in. Then the singing began. It was beautiful to listen to (if it was not 5am) while lying in bed in the pitch black. Then the church bells of a neighboring church started. Singing, bells and cock-a-doodle-doo. Yep...that was my 5am Vava'u Sunday morning. Bells and singing ensued again around 9 for the next services. It was surreal to walk through the deserted streets while the music floated through the air from multiple directions.
The singing is phenomenal. There are many churches to choose from and the music is largely similar with large, full multiple part harmonies that you can feel in your body.
In the large Catholic cathedral, people were scattered around the church belting out hymns in Tongan. Everything was sung like in a high mass including the responses. The music was not only beautiful...it was moving. The other fun thing was to see everyone in their Sunday best. From evening gowns to traditional Tongan attire to tourists in island wear, the church was full of color.

Neiafu feels like a ghost town on Sunday (with the exception of church...so I guess it is a Holy Ghost town). Nothing is open except for places that have Tongan Feasts. These feasts have tons of food ranging from a simple garden salad to corned beef, octopus or sea cucumber. The food is arranged beautifully on buffet tables. The climax of the progression of food is always the suckling pig (not just any pig mind you...a suckling pig).
Some of the Tongan Feasts include cultural dancing, some just focus on the food. We went out to a beautiful place by the 'Ene'io Botanical Gardens. The gardens were started in 1972 by an agronomist who still has a passion for his plants. The 22 acre garden is filled with over 500 plant species. We were not able to go into the gardens on Sunday but you can schedule to take a tour of the gardens during the week. We ate and had the remainder of the day to enjoy the beach. I attempted to snorkel but it was too shallow to get to see much. I was so afraid that I was going to touch what coral was alive that it was not enjoyable. Overall, it was a nice way to spend a lazy Sunday afternoon.
The guests of Port Wine Guest House were invited to join in a Tongan Feast one evening later in the week. This was part of a commercial that they were filming for the Rugby World Cup (yes, I will be on Tongan TV in a commercial waving a Tongan flag from a hammock saying 'Go Tonga'). After filming, we were able to eat. Yum! I have to say that the highlight was the octopus. It was delicious and I went back for thirds.

While in Vava'u, I stayed in two places, Blue Lagoon Resort on an outer island and Port Wine Guest House in Neiafu.
Blue Lagoon was a 40+ minute boat ride out to the island of Foiata. It was a small island that I walked in less than 30 minutes. They have up to 6 bungalows or Fales (pronounced "Fall" and a long "A") that are designed with local materials but have power and hot showers. It is a tropical paradise perfect for couples who want to treat themselves. I did feel very alone being by myself even though the other guests were warm and friendly.  The island resort is run by a German and his Tongan family. He immigrated over 20 years ago and has never looked back. The staff were nice but (maybe it is the German influence) not super warm. There were several times I was quite taken aback because of comments made to me that made it not hard to leave the island when it was time to go.  The communication was also lacking which made it difficult for me in the planning stage.

 Overall, the island was beautiful and I felt like I had chosen the first class route in my selection of locations. I stayed in the Mango Fale and I loved my veranda view. I spent lots of time sitting and watching the sunset. I also liked falling asleep to the ocean waves lapping on the beach below my room.


Since the island is so isolated, everyone eats at the restaurant on the island. The food is fantastic and the portions are generous. I read that it was the best food in Tonga and I do believe it. The breakfasts and dinners were extensive and all very good. I chose to stay on the island because they had a whale watch package that worked out to be comparable pricing to other packages AND they only put 4 people on the boat. That was worth paying a bit extra.  Without the whale boat trip and the advantage of only 4 people on the boat and the length of time out on the water, I probably would not go back to the resort.

(Tales of whale adventures begin in next post.)

Port Wine was fabulous. They were one of the few places that wrote back promptly. Unfortunately, they were full when I originally wrote but I tried once I arrived into Tonga and they had had a cancellation. They are amazing! The owners, Tai and Luisa, are so warm and inviting. From the moment I walked into the gate, I was treated like a friend/family. I received a warm greeting and was given the tour. I was also greeted by name and asked how my day was daily.
I stayed in the old house. They have a shared kitchen and bathroom and everyone had their own room.

Breakfast

Coconut lessons
(with left handed knife)

They have a garden with fresh herbs and peppers that are available for guests to use.  Papaya and bananas were offered when they were ripe.  The inside was very comfortable, the outside veranda was great and I enjoyed lounging in the hammocks.
Everyone was so friendly. I spent time talking with not only the other guests but Tai and Luisa as well as everyone who worked there. Tai took time to give me lessons on how to open a coconut. According to Tai, I was having a hard time because I was using a left handed knife. Ha Ha! You should have seen me try to hold the coconut in one hand and cut it open with the hatchet in the other. It was fun (and probably even more amusing for the spectators). The fresh coconut meat was then available for everyone to try and eat.
I arrived as a stranger and left a friend. I would go back there in a heartbeat! Port Wine was my favorite part of anything on the land in Tonga. An added bonus was meeting John...we spent long hours talking on the breezy veranda or the comfortable couches. We are kindred spirits. I met a lifelong friend at Port Wine.

My flight back to Tongatapu was incredible. I was given an isle seat on the way to Vava'u, so I requested a window seat. They were nice enough to move around my seat assignment. When I was getting situated on the plane, the flight attendant asked me if I wanted to sit up front. Sure. She walked away. I asked her what row so that I could move. She looked at me funny and said..."No up front...with the pilots. Just leave your things here and come with me". I grabbed my camera and went up. She told me to stand on this little step in between the pilots' seats. I moved out of the way and she pulled out the jump seat and helped me get strapped in. They fitted me with headphones and a microphone to talk with the pilots when they had time. I could not believe it! I wanted and window seat and BOY did I get one!
The pilots told me when I could get up and take some photos and they pointed out some of the sites along the way. Wow! What a great way to say goodbye to Vava'u!

Go Tonga!